It’s March on the calendar and that means it’s time to sum up the results of a major event in the world of fashion — NYFW2019. Who else but a photographer can reliably convey the atmosphere, spirit and style trends that have originated in New York this winter. Yulia German will tell us about the shows, backstages and subtleties of the organization.
Yulia, how long have you been living in New York? Did you have time to feel deeply the key features of the America’s fashion industry?
I’ve been living in New York for a year and a half, and all this time I am working hard on photography. I attend master classes and trainings by leading industry experts. But my main teachers are New Yorkers. Manhattan alone is worth something, coming here you can feel the taste of overseas fashion. I have something to compare with – before that I lived in Moscow, but here everything is different. People wear the stuff from a catwalk in real life and it’s wonderful!
What is it like to be a photographer at the world fashion Week?
I won’t be sly – it was difficult even to get there! NYFW can be divided into two categories: couture shows and the official schedule. They are based on the three main sites: Pier59, Gallery I and Gallery II in Tribeca, Industria. The rest of the events that take place within the framework of Fashion Week is actually fake. Many photographers settle with such pseudo-displays for public relations.
While working at Fashion Week in New York, a photographer should follow strict rules: dress code is men in black, as a rule. On the podium for the media you need to have time to take your niche, given that the best places a priori belong to House Media, it is not easy. During shooting you can’t raise your elbows, so as not to block your neighbor’s camera. It is physically difficult to work in this position, but it is worth it because you get an incredible experience and beautiful photos!
What fashion shows within N YFW did you manage to visit? What did you like most of all?
I succeeded to visit the shows of Nonie, Cushnie, Chiara Boni, Son Jung Wan, Adeam, Jonathan Simkhai, Cong Tri, Bibhu Mohapatra, Burnett New York, Chocheng, Zang Toi, Afffair. Every show is of a very high level. I saw a real show where models and their images were perfect.
Indian fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra showed the anniversary collection of evening dresses. High textures, rich colors and embroidery could not leave anyone indifferent.
Burnett New York presents clothes you want to wear – warm and attractive shades, flowing fabrics, unhackneyed styles.
The son of Donald Trump and his girlfriend attended Zang Toi show . The designer presented an extravagant collection called “I love America”.
Who of the young designers will we see at the top of the iceberg in a new season?
It is definitely worth highlighting Burnett New York, as the brand has an interesting philosophy and is famous for its love of fashion experiments. The models looked natural and relaxed on the podium, because the clothes are comfortable, but incredibly stylish.
How great is the role of a photographer in creating a trend?
A photographer is not only the person who presses the shutter button on a camera. One certainly needs specific knowledge of color correction and lighting engineering. In one word, he or she should be pros! Otherwise Pantone Institute may make a mistake with the color in a new season (kidding).
What know-how have been used in the organization of the Fashion Week this season?
After the tragic events of September 11, 2001 public events in New York are held under heavy guard. When I read bloggers ‘ stories describing how it is easy to get on NYFW, I don’t believe a word of it! Sometimes it seemed that there were more bodyguards than guests, literally every square meter was under strict supervision.
My attention was also drawn to the scrupulous way the organizers reacted to the issue of space ergonomics. Before each show the distance between the chairs for the guests was literally measured with a ruler to make everyone comfortable. And sometimes while filming I had to take a position lying down, but I never get dirty.
Whose decorations on the catwalk do you remember the most?
Stunning scenery decorated the podium of Bibhu Mohapatra. As always I came in advance to the show to get ready for work and suddenly I saw luxurious compositions of fresh flowers. They radiated enchanting aroma corresponding to the mood of the designer’s collection.
Despite the fact that the red carpet is associated with evening dresses, the designer Choheng used it to show a collection of business suits and outerwear. No wonder New York is called the city of contrasts, it’s hard to surprise the audience, but he has done it.
What designers were you able to communicate with in an informal setting?
I worked on the backstage at Burnett New York and negotiated with a designer Emily Burnett about cooperation. In general I am impressed with this brand, and I consider it a great success to get to know it better.
The show lasts 5-7 minutes and when you work alone it is impossible to shoot a collection from all angles. As part of the backstage it is possible to have a more detailed shooting. And I was also able to estimate the amazing work of hair stylists and makeup artists.
Yulia, what is your favorite genre of shooting in the fashion industry?
I am inspired by fashion and beauty photography, and I will spare no effort, no time for professional development! Initially I strive to make such photos to be placed on the cover of a magazine. My goal is to start shooting advertising campaigns for famous Fashion Houses.
What are your general impressions of NYFW?
Two years ago I lived in Moscow, and I couldn’t imagine that I would receive NYFW accreditation. Of course, I am delighted with everything that is happening! I live in a world of fashion and to find myself in the center of fashion industry events is a gift of fate.
Interview and photos credit: Yulia German @yulia.german.nyc